Let's jump right back into Rachels week in Jaipur. If you're here for the first time be sure to go back and read Part I for context.
From the hustle of the streets to a secret spot for flat whites here are some more of the juicy details that swept her away.
Q7. It’s early morning in Jaipur - where are you heading first?
The flower markets...or phool Mandi is what they call it. There are apparently up to 50 tonnes of flowers that pass through this market every day. As we were approaching I could feel the hustle and bustle increasing but then all of a sudden you see it and my senses were absolutely ignited. The whole week was a fever dream but this part particlarly so. The smell of rose. The sights of women carrying things, the chatter, the horns (always), the bulging fabrics and tuk tuks just stuffed full of flowers. MOUNDS of rose petals, mountains of marigolds and white chrysanthemums. Hand threaded garlands that you see coming together right in front of your eyes by humble hands.
And then you get to see them - the flowers that is - alll throughout the city as your day goes on. As worship, as celebration, as decoration. It's too much for words. I'll try let the photos talk but even then it needs to be a IRL experience if you ever can. Followed up by a chai at a road side stall in a terracotta cup. Best.morning.ever.
Q8. Chai seems to be the caffeine hit of choice but it has to be asked...is there anywhere you can go for a flat white?
YES! Laalee is a gorgeous boutique stay you should definitely look into but they have this oasis of a courtyard and stunning coffee made by lovely French man Dimitri. I also made multiple trips to Curious Roasters where it seems to be a bit of a scene for students who take their coffee seriously. You have to make a point of finding the places and getting to them but there's definitely some good coffee in the city.
Q9. What was the most memorable meal you had?
We had a buffet style lunch at Dera Amer which is a elephant and wildlife camp and unexpectedly this is the meal I'll remember most. It was the last one I had with our group so maybe that had something to do with it 🥲 But the roti drizzled in ghee fresh from the tandoor with butter paneer (paneer = soft cheese, in my mind it's like Indias version of tofu) was truly delish.
The Johri also deserves a strong mention. 5 star food and our amazing host telling stories of how love works in arranged marriage. Another colour drenched setting with classic Indian flavours and a really really good grapefruit margarita.
Q10. For anyone dreaming of treasure-hunting for homewares in India where should they go, and what should they be looking out for?
A stand out retail experience was Nila House. It's all white washed lime plastered walls and spacious airy tuberrose filled coutyards. It hits you extra hard because the streets are madness and then you step in and are like "FORGET PAISLEY I want only white and indigo in my life." (That didn't last long). Everything was natural fibres and colours from the earth. I got some perfect tea towels and a pack of beautiful cotton cards that I actually slipped in a few customers orders.
The girls had a great time in Ecru buying and sending home marble pieces and etched glassware whilst I sat back and had more chai and did their currency conversions.
Generally you’re probably bringing back textiles from India. Rugs, quilts, table cloths, maybe a buttoned pyjama set if that's your vibe.
~ Tip from a seasoned pro ie Megan Morton: at some stage you might just have what MM calls "India eyes" which I very much did on level two of Heritage Textiles wearing a quilted pink velvet jacket two sizes too small having wildly fluro table cloths unfolded for my viewing/buying pleasure. Have a cold drink and imagine yourself back home in the school pickup line and then make your decision.
Q11. Speaking of textiles, did you come across any special pieces for the wardrobe?
Yes. It was a one off embroidered and embellished vintage denim jacket from an emerging Indian brand Kartik Research. It was $1100 from The Palace Atelier and I didn’t bring it home but I still think about it. And also some faded red embroidered (there's a theme) flare pants from a store we went to called Parampara. The fashion and mixed Euro influence really surprised me in the best way possible.
Q12. What’s the one thing you brought back that makes you smile every time you see it?
A beautiful packet of matches I got from Jaipur Palace mostly because they made it through the airport screenings. IYKYK.
RAPID FIRE ROUND
Airport buy: team book, snacks, or skincare? Team book without a doubt. I pack snacks from home and always pack minis for a basic cleanse and moisturise in flight. I ALWAYS seem to break out on a plane no matter what I try so have given up on glam at this point.
Spice you’re now obsessed with? Cardamon or ginger. Anything that will make my chai more warm and spicy.
“My suitcase came back full of…” Exposed film...and presents for my daughters. Some grocery items for my chef ie husband. Despite all of the above I actually purposefully tried to be more of an observer in the shopping sense on this trip and found that equally if not more satisfying tbh.
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Rachel’s journey through India is a reminder of how travel feeds the creative soul - and how inspiration can be found in the most unexpected corners. Whether it’s a colour combination on the street or a scent memory that lingers long after you’re home, her stories add another rich layer to the world of Fridah. Until the next adventure, we’ll be dreaming in pattern, spice, and stories.
Story notes
- Full itinerary by The School who visit India every March and November. Add to your bucket list. Enquire directly through instagram
Photo credits: Rachel Kara + Nila House photos taken from nilajaipur.com
